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Carnosine (β-Alanyl-Histidine) · antioxidant dipeptide
Overview
On the INCI deck this active reads as Carnosine — the naturally occurring dipeptide β-Alanyl-L-Histidine (C9H14N4O3, MW 226.23), the same molecule found endogenously in muscle and brain tissue but supplied here as a biomimetic, lab-synthesised cosmetic grade. Unlike the lipidated matrikines and the neurotransmitter peptides elsewhere in the range, Carnosine is a small, highly water-soluble dipeptide studied around aqueous-phase antioxidant chemistry and a proposed anti-glycation role — the carbonyl-quenching narrative that anti-aging and 'longevity skincare' brands like to tell. For a finished-product brand it is the active that lets a serum talk about oxidative-defence and glycation framing without reaching for a lipidated signal peptide. Pepoderma writes the Carnosine spec for cosmetic chemists building antioxidant serums, anti-pollution essences, and supportive multi-active anti-aging bases where a compact water-soluble dipeptide carries the protective story. The active drops into the water phase cool and late on copper-clean process water; near-neutral carriers (pH 5.5–7.0) on polyglyceryl, lecithin, or sucrose-ester emulsifiers behave well, and the histidine imidazole means it is worth screening against transition-metal traces and strong oxidants in the same phase rather than assuming inertness. Because it reads as an aqueous antioxidant rather than a matrix or neuro active, a brief can position Carnosine as a protective companion alongside a signal peptide (Matrixyl, Hexapeptide-9) or a carrier peptide (GHK-Cu) rather than a substitute. Sample fills of 100 mg and 500 mg cover bench iterations and pilot work; bulk runs on the standard OEM cycle once a carrier is locked. INCI and CAS appear on the SDS for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, with an allergen and trace-impurity sheet per lot.
Who buys this, and why
Anti-aging peptide actives — Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu), Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8), Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) — ship primarily to indie beauty brand founders building retail serums, established skincare R&D chemists extending an existing anti-wrinkle line, and med-aesthetic brand OEMs developing back-bar retail products. The defining formulation considerations are use-level optimisation (lower is often better at the working pH), carrier selection (aqueous vs. lipid-encapsulated), and chelator-free preservative systems. The data packet ships with guidance on all three on the lot report.
Primary buyer fit: med-aesthetic brand R&D + back-bar retail OEM, regional cosmetic-active distributors serving brand programmes, and skincare R&D chemists scoping a finished-product line.
Applications & formulation fit
An antioxidant dipeptide: β-Alanyl-Histidine is a small, water-soluble peptide studied around aqueous-phase antioxidant chemistry and a proposed anti-glycation (carbonyl-quenching) role — an oxidative-defence active rather than a matrix or neuro one.
Use levels, pH window, and carrier compatibility are covered in the Journal — verify them against your own base:
Specifications
Documentation available on request
Regulatory note
Supplied as a cosmetic-grade peptide active under the EU EC 1223/2009 cosmetic regulation, NMPA cosmetic ingredient framework, FDA OTC monograph framework (where applicable), and equivalent regimes elsewhere. NOT a finished cosmetic product. Brand registration, finished-product safety substantiation, claim documentation, and notification (CPNP for EU, equivalent registries elsewhere) remain the responsibility of the brand owner. INCI naming and CAS are supplied with the SDS that ships with every lot.
Frequently asked questions
Carnosine is a naturally occurring dipeptide (β-Alanyl-Histidine) studied around aqueous-phase antioxidant and proposed anti-glycation chemistry, which is a different lane from the matrix-signalling matrikines (Matrixyl, Hexapeptide-9) and the expression-line neurotransmitter peptides (Argireline, SNAP-8). That distinction lets a brand position Carnosine as a protective, oxidative-defence companion in an anti-aging serum rather than a duplicate of a signal or neuro active. The framing should stay at the 'studied / designed to support' level — an antioxidant and skin-conditioning narrative for a cosmetic, not a treatment or efficacy promise. Put the INCI name and CAS 305-84-0 on the PO.
Add it to the water phase cool and late on copper-clean process water at a near-neutral pH (5.5–7.0), in anionic or non-ionic emulsions or a hydrogel; as a compact water-soluble dipeptide it disperses without the co-solvent slurry heavier lipidated peptides need. Because the histidine imidazole can interact with transition-metal traces and strong oxidants, it is worth a compatibility screen against the rest of the active stack in the same phase. It does not self-preserve, so the preservation system has to hold the whole product. Use-level and pH specifics are best verified against your own base; our emulsion-stability guide covers the carrier work rather than us restating a single figure here.
Sample fills are 100 mg for first-pass bench iterations and 500 mg once a carrier is selected and stability work begins; bulk fills for confirmed brand programmes run on the standard OEM cycle. Every shipment carries the INCI name (Carnosine), the CAS, an allergen and trace-impurity statement for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, and a formulation-notes card. We supply the cosmetic-grade ingredient and its ingredient-level documentation; finished-product registration and claims substantiation remain the brand owner's responsibility.
Related peptides
3-mer
Copper tripeptide-1
5-mer
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
18-mer
Hexapeptide-9 (Collaxyl) · collagen-fragment signal active
