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Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 (Neutrazen) · soothing neuropeptide active
Overview
On the INCI deck this active reads as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 — the lipidated tripeptide commercialised under names such as Neutrazen. The structure Pal-His-D-Phe-Arg-NH2 (C37H61N9O4, MW 695.94) is a palmitoylated peptide ester built on an α-MSH-derived motif and studied around the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1-R) as a proposed modulator of neurogenic inflammation — which is why the marketed narrative is soothing and sensitive-skin support rather than wrinkle relaxation or matrix building. For a finished-product brand it is the active that lets a calming serum or post-procedure base carry a 'designed to soothe' story distinct from the firming and expression-line peptides. Pepoderma writes the Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 spec for cosmetic chemists building soothing serums, sensitive-skin essences, and post-procedure calming bases where a single lipidated neuropeptide drives the formulation work. Hold pH in the 5.0–7.0 band; alkaline drift hydrolyses the palmitoyl amide bond and a hydrolysed lot loses both its delivery story and its INCI integrity. The palmitoyl tail rewards oil-phase or co-solvent loading rather than a straight water add — pre-disperse in a polysorbate or polyglyceryl blend at moderate temperature, then carry it in on the cool-down train. Because it engages a soothing pathway rather than a matrix or expression-line one, a brief can position it as the calming arm alongside a signal peptide (Matrixyl) or a copper carrier (GHK-Cu) in a recovery SKU. Sample fills of 10 mg and 100 mg cover bench iterations and pilot work; kilo-scale runs on the standard OEM cycle once a carrier is locked. INCI and CAS appear on the SDS for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, with an allergen and trace-impurity sheet per lot.
Who buys this, and why
Anti-aging peptide actives — Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu), Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8), Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) — ship primarily to indie beauty brand founders building retail serums, established skincare R&D chemists extending an existing anti-wrinkle line, and med-aesthetic brand OEMs developing back-bar retail products. The defining formulation considerations are use-level optimisation (lower is often better at the working pH), carrier selection (aqueous vs. lipid-encapsulated), and chelator-free preservative systems. The data packet ships with guidance on all three on the lot report.
Primary buyer fit: med-aesthetic brand R&D + back-bar retail OEM and regional cosmetic-active distributors serving brand programmes.
Applications & formulation fit
A lipidated neuropeptide: palmitoyl Pal-His-D-Phe-Arg, built on an α-MSH-derived motif and studied around the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1-R) as a proposed modulator of neurogenic inflammation — a soothing, sensitive-skin active.
Use levels, pH window, and carrier compatibility are covered in the Journal — verify them against your own base:
Specifications
Documentation available on request
Regulatory note
Supplied as a cosmetic-grade peptide active under the EU EC 1223/2009 cosmetic regulation, NMPA cosmetic ingredient framework, FDA OTC monograph framework (where applicable), and equivalent regimes elsewhere. NOT a finished cosmetic product. Brand registration, finished-product safety substantiation, claim documentation, and notification (CPNP for EU, equivalent registries elsewhere) remain the responsibility of the brand owner. INCI naming and CAS are supplied with the SDS that ships with every lot.
Frequently asked questions
It is a palmitoylated peptide built on an α-MSH-derived motif and studied around the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1-R) as a proposed modulator of neurogenic inflammation — the basis for its soothing, sensitive-skin narrative. That places it in a different lane from the matrix-signalling matrikines and the expression-line neurotransmitter peptides, so a brand can use it as the calming arm of a recovery or sensitive-skin SKU rather than a duplicate active. The framing stays at the 'studied / designed to soothe' level — a cosmetic comfort narrative, not a treatment for any inflammatory condition. Put the INCI name and CAS 936544-53-5 on the PO; the Neutrazen trade name maps to Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8.
Treat it like the other lipidated peptides: pre-disperse the powder in a small polysorbate or polyglyceryl co-solvent slurry at moderate temperature to avoid agglomerates, then carry it into the batch on the cool-down. Hold pH 5.0–7.0 — alkaline drift hydrolyses the palmitoyl amide bond, which kills the delivery story and adds a second peak to the stability chromatogram. It does not self-preserve, so the preservation system has to hold the whole product. Use-level and pH specifics are best verified against your own base; our emulsion-stability guide covers the carrier work rather than us restating a single figure here.
Sample fills are 10 mg for first-pass bench iterations and 100 mg once a carrier is selected and stability work begins; brand programmes scale to kilo lots on the standard OEM cycle. Every shipment carries the INCI name (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8), the CAS, an allergen and trace-impurity statement for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, and a formulation-notes card. We supply the cosmetic-grade ingredient and its ingredient-level documentation; finished-product registration and claims substantiation remain the brand owner's responsibility.
Related peptides
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester (Calmosensine) · soothing signal active
3-mer
Copper tripeptide-1
5-mer
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
