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Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 (Melitane) · brightening / tone active
Overview
On the INCI deck this active reads as Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 — the N-acetylated hexapeptide commercialised as Melitane. It is a biomimetic peptide studied around the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1-R) and the α-MSH pathway, the proposed basis for an even-tone and radiance narrative rather than the firming, expression-line, or matrix routes elsewhere in the range. For a finished-product brand it is the active that lets a brightening or even-tone serum carry a melanin-pathway story framed at the 'studied / designed to support' level. Pepoderma writes the Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 spec for cosmetic chemists building brightening serums, even-tone essences, and radiance-focused day and night treatments where a water-soluble peptide drives both the sensory and the claim conversation. The active drops into the water phase cool and late on copper-clean process water; near-neutral carriers (pH 5.5–7.0) on polyglyceryl, lecithin, or sucrose-ester emulsifiers behave well, and pre-dissolving the powder in a small glycerin or propanediol slurry keeps it dispersing cleanly. Because it engages a melanin-pathway target rather than a matrix or neuro one, a brief can position it as the tone arm alongside a signal peptide (Matrixyl) or a carrier peptide (GHK-Cu), and it pairs naturally with the other melanocortin-pathway brightener Nonapeptide-1 for a layered even-tone claim. Sample fills of 10 mg and 100 mg cover bench iterations and pilot work; kilo-scale runs on the standard OEM cycle once a carrier is locked. INCI and CAS appear on the SDS for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, with an allergen and trace-impurity sheet per lot.
Who buys this, and why
Anti-aging peptide actives — Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu), Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8), Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) — ship primarily to indie beauty brand founders building retail serums, established skincare R&D chemists extending an existing anti-wrinkle line, and med-aesthetic brand OEMs developing back-bar retail products. The defining formulation considerations are use-level optimisation (lower is often better at the working pH), carrier selection (aqueous vs. lipid-encapsulated), and chelator-free preservative systems. The data packet ships with guidance on all three on the lot report.
Primary buyer fit: med-aesthetic brand R&D + back-bar retail OEM and regional cosmetic-active distributors serving brand programmes.
Applications & formulation fit
A brightening peptide: Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 (Melitane) is a biomimetic peptide studied around the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1-R) and the α-MSH pathway — an even-tone and radiance active rather than a matrix or neuro one.
Use levels, pH window, and carrier compatibility are covered in the Journal — verify them against your own base:
Specifications
Documentation available on request
Regulatory note
Supplied as a cosmetic-grade peptide active under the EU EC 1223/2009 cosmetic regulation, NMPA cosmetic ingredient framework, FDA OTC monograph framework (where applicable), and equivalent regimes elsewhere. NOT a finished cosmetic product. Brand registration, finished-product safety substantiation, claim documentation, and notification (CPNP for EU, equivalent registries elsewhere) remain the responsibility of the brand owner. INCI naming and CAS are supplied with the SDS that ships with every lot.
Frequently asked questions
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 (Melitane) is a biomimetic peptide studied around the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1-R) and the α-MSH pathway, the proposed basis for its even-tone and radiance narrative. That places it in the brightening lane rather than alongside the firming matrikines or the expression-line neurotransmitter peptides, so a brand can use it as the tone arm of a brightening or even-tone SKU. It pairs naturally with the other melanocortin-pathway brightener Nonapeptide-1 for a layered claim. The framing stays at the 'studied / designed to support' level — a cosmetic even-tone narrative, not a treatment for hyperpigmentation as a medical condition. Put the INCI name and CAS 448944-47-6 on the PO; the Melitane trade name maps to Acetyl Hexapeptide-1.
Add it to the water phase cool and late on copper-clean process water at a near-neutral pH (5.5–7.0), in anionic or non-ionic emulsions or a hydrogel; pre-dissolving the powder in a small glycerin or propanediol slurry avoids clumping. As with any cosmetic peptide it does not self-preserve, so the preservation system has to hold the whole product. Use-level and pH specifics are best verified against your own base; our emulsion-stability guide covers the carrier work rather than us restating a single figure here.
Sample fills are 10 mg for first-pass bench iterations and 100 mg once a carrier is selected and stability work begins; brand programmes scale to kilo lots on the standard OEM cycle. Every shipment carries the INCI name (Acetyl Hexapeptide-1), the CAS, an allergen and trace-impurity statement for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, and a formulation-notes card. We supply the cosmetic-grade ingredient and its ingredient-level documentation; finished-product registration and claims substantiation remain the brand owner's responsibility.
Related peptides
32-mer
Nonapeptide-1 (Melanostatine-5) · brightening / tone active
3-mer
Copper tripeptide-1
5-mer
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4