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Nonapeptide-1 (Melanostatine-5) · brightening / tone active
Overview
On the INCI deck this active reads as Nonapeptide-1 — the nine-residue peptide commercialised as Melanostatine-5. The sequence H-Met-Pro-D-Phe-Arg-D-Trp-Phe-Lys-Pro-Val-NH2 is a biomimetic peptide studied as a proposed antagonist of α-MSH at the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1-R), the basis for an even-tone and radiance narrative rather than the firming, expression-line, or matrix routes elsewhere in the range. For a finished-product brand it is the active that lets a brightening or even-tone serum carry a melanin-pathway story framed at the 'studied / designed to support' level. Pepoderma writes the Nonapeptide-1 spec for cosmetic chemists building brightening serums, even-tone essences, and radiance treatments where a water-soluble peptide drives the claim. The active drops into the water phase cool and late on copper-clean process water; near-neutral carriers (pH 5.5–7.0) on polyglyceryl, lecithin, or sucrose-ester emulsifiers behave well, and pre-dissolving the powder in a small glycerin or propanediol slurry keeps it dispersing cleanly. Because it engages the same broad melanocortin pathway as Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, a brief can layer the two for a multi-vector even-tone claim, or pair Nonapeptide-1 with a signal peptide (Matrixyl) or a carrier peptide (GHK-Cu) when a brightening SKU also wants a firmness or carrier arm. Sample fills of 10 mg and 100 mg cover bench iterations and pilot work; kilo-scale runs on the standard OEM cycle once a carrier is locked. INCI and CAS appear on the SDS for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, with an allergen and trace-impurity sheet per lot.
Who buys this, and why
Anti-aging peptide actives — Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu), Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8), Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) — ship primarily to indie beauty brand founders building retail serums, established skincare R&D chemists extending an existing anti-wrinkle line, and med-aesthetic brand OEMs developing back-bar retail products. The defining formulation considerations are use-level optimisation (lower is often better at the working pH), carrier selection (aqueous vs. lipid-encapsulated), and chelator-free preservative systems. The data packet ships with guidance on all three on the lot report.
Primary buyer fit: med-aesthetic brand R&D + back-bar retail OEM and regional cosmetic-active distributors serving brand programmes.
Applications & formulation fit
A brightening peptide: Nonapeptide-1 (Melanostatine-5) is a biomimetic peptide studied as a proposed antagonist of α-MSH at the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1-R) — an even-tone and radiance active.
Use levels, pH window, and carrier compatibility are covered in the Journal — verify them against your own base:
Specifications
Documentation available on request
Regulatory note
Supplied as a cosmetic-grade peptide active under the EU EC 1223/2009 cosmetic regulation, NMPA cosmetic ingredient framework, FDA OTC monograph framework (where applicable), and equivalent regimes elsewhere. NOT a finished cosmetic product. Brand registration, finished-product safety substantiation, claim documentation, and notification (CPNP for EU, equivalent registries elsewhere) remain the responsibility of the brand owner. INCI naming and CAS are supplied with the SDS that ships with every lot.
Frequently asked questions
Nonapeptide-1 (Melanostatine-5) is a biomimetic peptide studied as a proposed antagonist of α-MSH at the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1-R), the basis for its even-tone and radiance narrative. That places it in the brightening lane rather than alongside the firming matrikines or the expression-line neurotransmitter peptides, so a brand can use it as the tone arm of a brightening SKU and layer it with the related melanocortin-pathway active Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 for a multi-vector claim. The framing stays at the 'studied / designed to support' level — a cosmetic even-tone narrative, not a treatment for hyperpigmentation as a medical condition. Put the INCI name and CAS 158563-45-2 on the PO; the Melanostatine-5 trade name maps to Nonapeptide-1.
Add it to the water phase cool and late on copper-clean process water at a near-neutral pH (5.5–7.0), in anionic or non-ionic emulsions or a hydrogel; pre-dissolving the powder in a small glycerin or propanediol slurry avoids clumping. As with any cosmetic peptide it does not self-preserve, so the preservation system has to hold the whole product. Use-level and pH specifics are best verified against your own base; our emulsion-stability guide covers the carrier work rather than us restating a single figure here.
Sample fills are 10 mg for first-pass bench iterations and 100 mg once a carrier is selected and stability work begins; brand programmes scale to kilo lots on the standard OEM cycle. Every shipment carries the INCI name (Nonapeptide-1), the CAS, an allergen and trace-impurity statement for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, and a formulation-notes card. We supply the cosmetic-grade ingredient and its ingredient-level documentation; finished-product registration and claims substantiation remain the brand owner's responsibility.
Related peptides
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 (Melitane) · brightening / tone active
3-mer
Copper tripeptide-1
5-mer
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
