GHK-Cu in 2026 — A Formulator's Field Guide to Copper Tripeptide-1. Read our briefing →
GHK-Cu in 2026 — a formulator's field guide. Read →
On GHK-Cu. Read →
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 · matrikine signal active
Overview
On the INCI deck this active reads as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 — the lipidated tripeptide commercialised by Sederma as Matrixyl Synthe'6. It is a signal peptide (matrikine): the sequence Pal-Lys-Met(O2)-Lys-OH carries a palmitoyl tail for stratum-corneum delivery and is studied around a proposed multi-target matrix signal, with the marketed narrative spanning collagen I, III and IV, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid. For a fine-line and smoothing brand the on-pack story is a matrix-rebuilding signal framed at the 'designed to support' level — a complement to, rather than a duplicate of, the Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4) and Matrixyl 3000 entries a brand may already carry. Pepoderma writes the Matrixyl Synthe'6 spec for cosmetic chemists building fine-line, firming, and smoothing serums and richer creams where a single lipidated matrikine drives the formulation work. Hold pH in the 5.0–7.0 band; alkaline drift hydrolyses the palmitoyl amide bond and a hydrolysed lot loses both its delivery story and its INCI integrity. The palmitoyl tail rewards oil-phase or co-solvent loading rather than a straight water add — pre-disperse in a polysorbate or polyglyceryl blend at moderate temperature, then carry it in on the cool-down train. Because it is a distinct matrikine from the other Matrixyl-family peptides, a brief can layer it with them for a broader matrix-signal claim, or pair it with a neurotransmitter peptide (SNAP-8, Argireline) and a carrier peptide (GHK-Cu) for a multi-axis anti-aging stack. Sample fills of 10 mg and 100 mg cover bench iterations and pilot work; kilo-scale runs on the standard OEM cycle. INCI and CAS appear on the SDS for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, with an allergen and trace-impurity sheet per lot.
Who buys this, and why
Anti-aging peptide actives — Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu), Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8), Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) — ship primarily to indie beauty brand founders building retail serums, established skincare R&D chemists extending an existing anti-wrinkle line, and med-aesthetic brand OEMs developing back-bar retail products. The defining formulation considerations are use-level optimisation (lower is often better at the working pH), carrier selection (aqueous vs. lipid-encapsulated), and chelator-free preservative systems. The data packet ships with guidance on all three on the lot report.
Primary buyer fit: med-aesthetic brand R&D + back-bar retail OEM and regional cosmetic-active distributors serving brand programmes.
Applications & formulation fit
A signal peptide (matrixokine): palmitoyl Pal-KMK, lipidated to cross the stratum corneum and signal fibroblasts toward extracellular-matrix proteins — a matrix-support active in the Matrixyl family.
Use levels, pH window, and carrier compatibility are covered in the Journal — verify them against your own base:
Specifications
Documentation available on request
Regulatory note
Supplied as a cosmetic-grade peptide active under the EU EC 1223/2009 cosmetic regulation, NMPA cosmetic ingredient framework, FDA OTC monograph framework (where applicable), and equivalent regimes elsewhere. NOT a finished cosmetic product. Brand registration, finished-product safety substantiation, claim documentation, and notification (CPNP for EU, equivalent registries elsewhere) remain the responsibility of the brand owner. INCI naming and CAS are supplied with the SDS that ships with every lot.
Frequently asked questions
It is a distinct matrikine. Matrixyl is Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (the original KTTKS lipopeptide); Matrixyl 3000 is a Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 + Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 blend; Matrixyl Synthe'6 is Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, a separate single peptide studied around a broader proposed matrix signal. Because each is a different molecule with its own INCI name and CAS, a brand can layer them for a wider matrix-signal claim or pick one as the hero — but a PO should name the specific product and INCI to avoid a sample mix-up. All three run on the same lipidated-peptide analytical workflow at Pepoderma.
Treat it like the other lipidated matrikines: pre-disperse the powder in a small polysorbate or polyglyceryl co-solvent slurry at moderate temperature to avoid agglomerates, then carry it into the batch on the cool-down. Hold pH 5.0–7.0 — alkaline drift hydrolyses the palmitoyl amide bond, which kills the delivery story and adds a second peak to the stability chromatogram. It does not self-preserve, so the preservation system has to hold the whole product. Use-level and pH specifics are best verified against your own base; our emulsion-stability guide covers the carrier work rather than us restating a single figure here.
Sample fills are 10 mg for first-pass bench iterations and 100 mg once a carrier is selected and stability work begins; brand programmes scale to kilo lots on the standard OEM cycle. Every shipment carries the INCI name (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38), the CAS, an allergen and trace-impurity statement for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, and a formulation-notes card. We supply the cosmetic-grade ingredient and its ingredient-level documentation; finished-product registration and claims substantiation remain the brand owner's responsibility.
Related peptides
5-mer
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 + Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 matrikine blend
3-mer
Copper tripeptide-1
