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Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10 · barrier-support signal active
Overview
On the INCI deck this active reads as Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10 — the lipidated tetrapeptide built on the sequence Pal-Lys-Thr-Phe-Lys (C41H72N6O7). It is a signal peptide carrying a palmitoyl tail for stratum-corneum delivery and is studied around skin-barrier and keratinocyte-adhesion support, with the marketed narrative leaning on barrier resilience and skin smoothness rather than the wrinkle-relaxation or brightening routes elsewhere in the range. For a finished-product brand it is the active that lets a barrier-repair serum or moisturiser carry a 'designed to support the barrier' story distinct from the firming matrikines. Pepoderma writes the Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10 spec for cosmetic chemists building barrier-support serums, moisturisers, and soothing bases where a single lipidated signal peptide drives the formulation work. Hold pH in the 5.0–7.0 band; alkaline drift hydrolyses the palmitoyl amide bond and a hydrolysed lot loses both its delivery story and its INCI integrity. The palmitoyl tail rewards oil-phase or co-solvent loading rather than a straight water add — pre-disperse in a polysorbate or polyglyceryl blend at moderate temperature, then carry it in on the cool-down train. Because it sits in the barrier-support lane, a brief can position it alongside a soothing peptide (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8) or a copper carrier (GHK-Cu) in a recovery SKU, or layer it with a firming matrikine (Matrixyl) for a broader anti-aging claim. Sample fills of 10 mg and 100 mg cover bench iterations and pilot work; kilo-scale runs on the standard OEM cycle once a carrier is locked. INCI and CAS appear on the SDS for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, with an allergen and trace-impurity sheet per lot.
Who buys this, and why
Anti-aging peptide actives — Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu), Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8), Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) — ship primarily to indie beauty brand founders building retail serums, established skincare R&D chemists extending an existing anti-wrinkle line, and med-aesthetic brand OEMs developing back-bar retail products. The defining formulation considerations are use-level optimisation (lower is often better at the working pH), carrier selection (aqueous vs. lipid-encapsulated), and chelator-free preservative systems. The data packet ships with guidance on all three on the lot report.
Primary buyer fit: med-aesthetic brand R&D + back-bar retail OEM and regional cosmetic-active distributors serving brand programmes.
Applications & formulation fit
A signal peptide: palmitoyl Pal-Lys-Thr-Phe-Lys, lipidated to cross the stratum corneum and studied around skin-barrier and keratinocyte-adhesion support — a barrier-resilience active.
Use levels, pH window, and carrier compatibility are covered in the Journal — verify them against your own base:
Specifications
Documentation available on request
Regulatory note
Supplied as a cosmetic-grade peptide active under the EU EC 1223/2009 cosmetic regulation, NMPA cosmetic ingredient framework, FDA OTC monograph framework (where applicable), and equivalent regimes elsewhere. NOT a finished cosmetic product. Brand registration, finished-product safety substantiation, claim documentation, and notification (CPNP for EU, equivalent registries elsewhere) remain the responsibility of the brand owner. INCI naming and CAS are supplied with the SDS that ships with every lot.
Frequently asked questions
It is a lipidated signal peptide studied around skin-barrier and keratinocyte-adhesion support, which is the basis for its barrier-resilience and smoothness narrative. That places it in a different lane from the firming matrikines and the expression-line neurotransmitter peptides, so a brand can use it as the barrier-support arm of a recovery or moisturiser SKU rather than a duplicate active. The framing stays at the 'studied / designed to support' level — a cosmetic barrier narrative, not a treatment claim. Put the INCI name and CAS 887140-79-6 on the PO.
The palmitoyl tail makes the molecule amphipathic so it can cross the stratum corneum, but that same hydrophobicity means a straight water add tends to form agglomerates. Pre-disperse the powder in a small polysorbate or polyglyceryl co-solvent slurry at moderate temperature, then carry it into the batch on the cool-down. Hold pH 5.0–7.0 — alkaline drift hydrolyses the palmitoyl amide bond and gives a stability programme a second-peak problem on HPLC. It does not self-preserve, so the preservation system has to hold the whole product. Verify use-level and pH against your own base; our emulsion-stability guide covers the carrier work.
Sample fills are 10 mg for first-pass bench iterations and 100 mg once a carrier is selected and stability work begins; brand programmes scale to kilo lots on the standard OEM cycle. Every shipment carries the INCI name (Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10), the CAS, an allergen and trace-impurity statement for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, and a formulation-notes card. We supply the cosmetic-grade ingredient and its ingredient-level documentation; finished-product registration and claims substantiation remain the brand owner's responsibility.
Related peptides
15-mer
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 (Neutrazen) · soothing neuropeptide active
5-mer
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
3-mer
Copper tripeptide-1
