GHK-Cu in 2026 — A Formulator's Field Guide to Copper Tripeptide-1. Read our briefing →
GHK-Cu in 2026 — a formulator's field guide. Read →
On GHK-Cu. Read →
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (Syn-Coll) · signal active
Overview
On the INCI deck this active reads as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 — the lipidated tripeptide commercialised as Syn-Coll. It is a signal peptide: the sequence Pal-Lys-Val-Lys (MW 538.72) carries a palmitoyl tail for stratum-corneum delivery and is studied around a proposed TGF-β-pathway mechanism for supporting collagen. For a firming-and-collagen brand the on-pack story is a matrix-signal narrative framed at the 'designed to support' level — a signal-peptide alternative or companion to the Matrixyl-family matrikines a brand may already carry, with its own distinct proposed pathway. Pepoderma writes the Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 spec for cosmetic chemists building collagen-support, firming, and smoothing serums and richer creams where a single lipidated signal peptide drives the formulation work. Hold pH in the 5.0–7.0 band; alkaline drift hydrolyses the palmitoyl amide bond and a hydrolysed lot loses both its delivery story and its INCI integrity. The palmitoyl tail rewards oil-phase or co-solvent loading rather than a straight water add — pre-disperse in a polysorbate or polyglyceryl blend at moderate temperature, then carry it in on the cool-down train. Because its proposed pathway differs from the matrikine peptides, a brief can layer it with Matrixyl or Matrixyl Synthe'6 for a broader collagen-signal claim, or pair it with a neurotransmitter peptide (SNAP-8, Argireline) and a carrier peptide (GHK-Cu) for a multi-axis anti-aging stack. Sample fills of 10 mg and 100 mg cover bench iterations and pilot work; kilo-scale runs on the standard OEM cycle once a carrier is locked. INCI and CAS appear on the SDS for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, with an allergen and trace-impurity sheet per lot.
Who buys this, and why
Anti-aging peptide actives — Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu), Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8), Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) — ship primarily to indie beauty brand founders building retail serums, established skincare R&D chemists extending an existing anti-wrinkle line, and med-aesthetic brand OEMs developing back-bar retail products. The defining formulation considerations are use-level optimisation (lower is often better at the working pH), carrier selection (aqueous vs. lipid-encapsulated), and chelator-free preservative systems. The data packet ships with guidance on all three on the lot report.
Primary buyer fit: med-aesthetic brand R&D + back-bar retail OEM and regional cosmetic-active distributors serving brand programmes.
Applications & formulation fit
A signal peptide: palmitoyl Pal-KVK, lipidated to cross the stratum corneum, designed to act through the collagen-biosynthesis (TGF-β) signalling axis — a firmness-and-collagen active also sold as Syn-Coll.
Use levels, pH window, and carrier compatibility are covered in the Journal — verify them against your own base:
Specifications
Documentation available on request
Regulatory note
Supplied as a cosmetic-grade peptide active under the EU EC 1223/2009 cosmetic regulation, NMPA cosmetic ingredient framework, FDA OTC monograph framework (where applicable), and equivalent regimes elsewhere. NOT a finished cosmetic product. Brand registration, finished-product safety substantiation, claim documentation, and notification (CPNP for EU, equivalent registries elsewhere) remain the responsibility of the brand owner. INCI naming and CAS are supplied with the SDS that ships with every lot.
Frequently asked questions
It is a signal peptide like the Matrixyl family, but it is studied around a different proposed pathway — a TGF-β-pathway mechanism for supporting collagen — whereas the Matrixyl peptides are framed as matrikine fragments. That distinction lets a brand position Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 as a complementary collagen-signal active alongside Matrixyl or Matrixyl Synthe'6 rather than a duplicate. As with all of these lipopeptides, the framing stays at the 'studied / designed to support' level — a cosmetic firmness narrative, not an efficacy or treatment claim. Put the INCI name and CAS 623172-56-5 on the PO; the Syn-Coll trade name maps to Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5.
Treat it like the other lipidated signal peptides: pre-disperse the powder in a small polysorbate or polyglyceryl co-solvent slurry at moderate temperature to avoid agglomerates, then carry it into the batch on the cool-down. Hold pH 5.0–7.0 — alkaline drift hydrolyses the palmitoyl amide bond, which kills the delivery story and adds a second peak to the stability chromatogram. It does not self-preserve, so the preservation system has to hold the whole product. Use-level and pH specifics are best verified against your own base; our emulsion-stability and layering guides cover the carrier work rather than us restating a single figure here.
Sample fills are 10 mg for first-pass bench iterations and 100 mg once a carrier is selected and stability work begins; brand programmes scale to kilo lots on the standard OEM cycle. Every shipment carries the INCI name (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5), the CAS, an allergen and trace-impurity statement for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, and a formulation-notes card. We supply the cosmetic-grade ingredient and its ingredient-level documentation; finished-product registration and claims substantiation remain the brand owner's responsibility.
Related peptides
5-mer
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
15-mer
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 · matrikine signal active
3-mer
Copper tripeptide-1
