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Dipeptide-2 (Val-Trp) · eye-area enzyme-inhibitor active
Overview
On the INCI deck this active reads as Dipeptide-2 — the dipeptide Valyl-Tryptophan, H-Val-Trp-OH (C16H21N3O3, MW 303.36). It is a compact, water-soluble peptide studied around angiotensin-converting-enzyme (ACE) inhibition as a proposed route to supporting local microcirculation, which is why the marketed narrative is the eye contour — under-eye puffiness and the appearance of dark circles — rather than the firming or wrinkle-relaxation routes elsewhere in the range. For a finished-product brand it is the active that lets an eye serum carry a de-puffing and 'morning-eye' story framed at the 'designed to support' level, complementary to the eye-area specialist Eyeseryl. Pepoderma writes the Dipeptide-2 spec for cosmetic chemists building eye serums, eye gels, and de-puffing eye creams where a small water-soluble peptide and a delicate application area shape the formulation. The active goes into the water phase cool and late on copper-clean process water; near-neutral carriers (pH 5.5–7.0) on polyglyceryl, lecithin, or sucrose-ester emulsifiers behave well, and the low molecular weight means it disperses without the co-solvent slurry heavier lipidated peptides need. Because the eye contour is a sensitive zone, the surrounding formula — preservative system, surfactant load, fragrance — deserves the same scrutiny as the active itself, and the peptide does not self-preserve. Dipeptide-2 pairs naturally with Eyeseryl when an eye SKU wants two complementary puffiness arms, and with a copper peptide (GHK-Cu/AHK-Cu) in a periocular gel if the copper phase stays chelator-free. Sample fills of 10 mg and 100 mg cover bench iterations and pilot work; kilo-scale runs on the standard OEM cycle once a carrier is locked. INCI and CAS appear on the SDS for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, with an allergen and trace-impurity sheet per lot.
Who buys this, and why
Anti-aging peptide actives — Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu), Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8), Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) — ship primarily to indie beauty brand founders building retail serums, established skincare R&D chemists extending an existing anti-wrinkle line, and med-aesthetic brand OEMs developing back-bar retail products. The defining formulation considerations are use-level optimisation (lower is often better at the working pH), carrier selection (aqueous vs. lipid-encapsulated), and chelator-free preservative systems. The data packet ships with guidance on all three on the lot report.
Primary buyer fit: med-aesthetic brand R&D + back-bar retail OEM and regional cosmetic-active distributors serving brand programmes.
Applications & formulation fit
An enzyme-inhibitor peptide: the dipeptide Valyl-Tryptophan (Val-Trp) is studied around angiotensin-converting-enzyme (ACE) inhibition as a proposed route to supporting local microcirculation — formulated for the eye contour.
Use levels, pH window, and carrier compatibility are covered in the Journal — verify them against your own base:
Specifications
Documentation available on request
Regulatory note
Supplied as a cosmetic-grade peptide active under the EU EC 1223/2009 cosmetic regulation, NMPA cosmetic ingredient framework, FDA OTC monograph framework (where applicable), and equivalent regimes elsewhere. NOT a finished cosmetic product. Brand registration, finished-product safety substantiation, claim documentation, and notification (CPNP for EU, equivalent registries elsewhere) remain the responsibility of the brand owner. INCI naming and CAS are supplied with the SDS that ships with every lot.
Frequently asked questions
Dipeptide-2 (Valyl-Tryptophan) is studied around angiotensin-converting-enzyme (ACE) inhibition as a proposed route to supporting local microcirculation, which is the basis for its eye-contour positioning — the appearance of under-eye puffiness and dark circles — rather than forehead or glabellar dynamic lines. For a brand it means an eye SKU can carry de-puffing claim language that stays specifically about the eye area, and it complements the eye specialist Eyeseryl with a different proposed mechanism. The framing stays at the 'studied / designed to support' level; this is a cosmetic active for an eye-care product, not a treatment for a vascular or medical condition. Put the INCI name and CAS 24587-37-9 on the PO.
Add the active to the water phase cool and late on copper-clean process water at a near-neutral pH (5.5–7.0); lightweight eye gels, hydrogels, and roll-on bases suit it, as do gentle non-ionic emulsions, and the low molecular weight means it disperses without a co-solvent slurry. Because the eye contour is sensitive, the rest of the formula — preservative system, surfactant choice, fragrance load — warrants the same care as the active, and the peptide does not self-preserve. Pairing with Eyeseryl gives two complementary puffiness arms; verify use level and pH against your own base rather than a single supplier figure.
Sample fills are 10 mg for first-pass bench iterations and 100 mg once a carrier is selected and stability work begins; brand programmes scale to kilo lots on the standard OEM cycle. Every shipment carries the INCI name (Dipeptide-2), the CAS, an allergen and trace-impurity statement for CPNP and equivalent cosmetic notifications, and a formulation-notes card. We supply the cosmetic-grade ingredient and its ingredient-level documentation; finished-product registration and claims substantiation, including any eye-area-specific testing your market requires, remain the brand owner's responsibility.
Related peptides
14-mer
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 · eye-area active
3-mer
Copper tripeptide-1
3-mer
Copper peptide AHK
